Butte – 1000km down

We knew our updates would be sporadic – and that is proving to be the case. It has been a wee while since the last update from Trystan, and even longer since the full update from Fernie. So time to update you on our progress.

We are now over 1000km into our trip and progress is going great – knocking out 60 plus mile days with regularity. Planning and efficiency has improved leaps and bounds - we set our target for the day and we usually meet it - if not exceed it. We have had a good run with gear but we are not getting complacent. And we have successfully managed some sore knees and joints.

From Fernie we managed to cross the border on the same day, finishing in Eureka, Montana - knocking out 71 miles including the border crossing. Aside from that highlight, a Saturday Market at a middle-of-nowhere spot called Bayne's Lake was a welcome early lunch of fresh fruit and popcorn.

From Eureka we did another big day - over 60 miles and 5000ft of climbing to finish at Red Meadow Lake - a beautiful spot even with a Grizzly for company. Aside from the killer climb to end that day, the highlight was definitely the navigation. Earlier in the day I had given Trystan my best "don't question me" look regarding a navigation decision which I was supremely confident about - only to be politely told why I was oh so clearly wrong. Later that same day Ben and Trystan blew past a quite obvious turn, riding an extra 5 miles and leaving Simon and I wondering what had happened.

Monday 29 saw us have a great easy downhill ride into Whitefish - a town which sits by another very attractive lake. A visit to the renowned Glacier Cyclery proved worthwhile with a wee bit of work being done. We also met a pair of Grandfathers riding the trail - we subsequently passed them four times due to the location of our campsites and timing of a rest day. Instead of staying the night beside Whitefish Lake as recommended we decided to press on - keen to get a bit closer to our rest day at Holland Lake two days down the track. The chosen spot at Columbia falls was a bit of a miss - an RV campground at the back of an industrial park. Still, we got our first hot shower since Fernie.

The following day was another 65 miler to another cracker lake - this one was Swan Lake. Paying for the campground gave us the right to access the lake for a swim (!!) but as we move south the water temperatures have been getting warmer and the dip was well worth it. "Two Feather" the park ranger, was one of the personalities which we will not forget in a hurry, even giving us the promised marshmallows (the biggest we have ever seen) for the campfire which we never lit.

And to yet another lake, this time Holland Lake for our eagerly anticipated rest day. With sore legs, Holland Lake was an idyllic spot to reach after what had seemed like a hard day at work in the saddle. After being given a campsite "just for bikers" right on the waters edge and away from the RV's, we headed for the lodge for a beer and a "just for bikers" grilled ham and cheese sandwich. An invite for a buffet breakfast was well received after 10 days on the trot of oatmeal. We were in heaven. What could go wrong? After whetting our appetites all evening for the feast which lay ahead, which included Simon almost doing the unthinkable by considering not finishing his KD dinner, we were mentally and physically prepared for gluttony. Trystan and I took a slightly different strategy to Ben and Simon - we shamelessly piled our plates while they went for the multiple rounds philosophy. This would have been fine except they were refused a second round, leaving them feeling rather short changed. Any attempts at sweet talk were met with a cold response and only after a later "peacing" did we thankfully leave on good terms.

Other highlights of the rest day was Trystan's unsuccessful hitch-hike back to Swan Lake in search of his misplaced wallet (unsuccessful but it has since been located and is on its way back thankfully). Actually that wasn't much of a hilight - missing out on a planned hike. Meanwhile Ben, Simon and I hired a canoe and created a new multisport adventure event. The legs were: 1) paddle to end of lake beside stream entrance. 2) Hike upstream towards the waterfall in your choice of bare feet or crocs. 3) When you can get no further, go bush-whacking through dense forest, head straight uphill looking for the trail, finishing with a 45 degree scree slope climb, still in bare feet or crocs. 4) find trail and finish hike to waterfall. 5) reflect on the view and a job only half complete. 6) head back down the trail until you get to an appropriately close spot to the lake edge. 7) Ditch any gear you are carrying an swim 300 meters back to the canoe. 8) Get in canoe, retrieve gear, and and head back to the start all within the two hours allotted time. Great fun!

The following day took us to Ovando - a small town, pop 71, a pub, cafe, B&B, general store, and fishing shop, all "downtown", not to mention school and baseball field. The trail riding on this day was quite spectacular, with an epic climb and decent through the "Grizzly Basin" (none seen today). Keen to make Seally Lake for a late lunch, we bumped into two great divide riders riding in the opposite direction - a father and son combo Bob and Kevin. We stopped and chatted non-stop for a half hour. If it wasn't for our hunger and thirst, and the hot, dry dusty trail we were on, I am sure we could have talked for hours. After an unspectacular and prolonged lunch stop at Seally Lake it was off to Ovando, pop 71, a pub, cafe, B&B, general store, and fishing shop, all "downtown". After a satisfying and ridiculously inexpensive pub dinner with the locals prepping for 4th of July celebrations, we took our campsite on the Ovando baseball field, as offered by the locals. This was a lovely spot - perfect for disc, and best of all you could peg your tent where it landed... Until 3 in the morning when the irrigation system comes on. With the bro's tenting fly-less they were in action rather quickly. Somehow Trystan managed to place his tent away from the waterworks. Meanwhile I was wearing ear plugged and slept through most of it - even with a blast of the irrigation jet every few moments. When I finally awoke to the noise - a couple of moments to figure out what was going on, I too made a well timed dash to relocate my tent. Which was fine, until about 15 minutes later when the those sprinklers turned off and the sprinklers on the new spot came on... And the locals swore they weren't in on it...

The 4th of July took us through a small town called Lincoln - bustling with activity in preparation for the celebrations. a strained group decision (I will admit I was not keen to stay) saw us carry on and finish the night atop the Continental Divide, at 7000ft. The spot was absolutely amazing, but we had the help of quite possibly the nicest couple on earth - Mark and Cheleena. After getting a bit location-confused, Mark and Cheleena came along the trail in there 4wd, their timing impeccable. To cut the story short - they pointed us in the right direction, then had a couple of drinks with us, and gave us a bottle of wine, and Mark even made the call to the bike shop in Butte to let them know we were coming. Amazing people. And to think they were getting the best side of the deal by meeting and chatting to us, a bunch of great divide riders!

A few other bits and pieces: On the whole the weather has been outstanding. After a couple of cool, wet days to start the trip we have been met with multiple bluebird days - hot, clear, and quite calm. Only in the last couple of days have we seen some thunderstorm activity.

Food: Oatmeal and hot chocolate is the breakfast staple. we go through a pound of hot chocolate in four rounds! Lunches of flat breads with PB/ nutella/ jam/ honey may require an overhaul soon. Dinners of pasta an tuna are the other staple. We do try and make the most of our location when we can - and have been having a few pub meals and the like. Arriving in Butte has been a culinary experience of sorts - Denny's for dinner, cheap beers, my first and last Twinky, and then fruitloops for breakfast this morning. Amazing.